Wara Watut - Labu to Sambio

From the outset of our expedition things were full on. We were introduced to 'PNG-time' almost immediately with our flight from Port Moresby to Lae was delayed by more than an hour... for no reason. After finally getting on our flight all of our thoughts were on whether of not our boats would actually make it to Lae. Forty-five minutes of anticipation and bullshit discussion passed, we landed safely at Nadzap Airport and much to our delight, three intact kayaks and a paddle bag were thrown into the arrivals room!!! Next moment of anticipation was whether our local contact, ex-pat now PNG citizen Murray 'the man' Fletcher, whom we had spoke to only a couple of times, had turned up... waited for our delay... and was ready to accommodate us three. After a moment or two with Murray, we knew we had lucked out and found that 'Golden Contact'! Boats, our bags and and we were quickly on the back of the ute and on our way to Lae. But before we left the airport, a slightly stunned local (whitey's are not usually/ are never riding on the back of a truck) yelled out to Shannon and I, "Paradise". Little did I know that that man, in one word, had described our future opinion of Papua New Guinea.

The next day we were straight into it. We meet with Reuban Mete and Reuben Paul, both of whom were counsellors on the Union of Watut River Communities, and were invited to the small village of Labu to help raise awareness for an upcoming forum concerning the issue of the Watut River degradation by the Hidden Valley Mine. Banana boat is the only method of travel between Lae and Labu, and after a 10minute journey across the Huon Gulf and the mouth of the Markham River, we arrived. Labu is group of villages, number 1, 2 and 3, that are primarily subsistence based. They are reliant on the land for growing vegetable,s fruit and raising kakaruk (chickens). Though Labu is not located on the Watut River, it has still felt the effects of the silting and chemical leaching of the Watut and then, in effect, the Lower Markham River. Fish stocks have dwindled, forcing local fisherman to go much further afield to catch a sufficient yield, skin infections are rife in the younger population, an issue exacerbated by the inadequate health-care system and, therefore, the livelihoods of these villages is being slowly destroyed. Even with this, however, the Union of Watut River Communities and the villages leaders themselves had been unable to reach all the people of Labu to communicate their intention of the forum and, more importantly, the Union itself.

Shannon and Reuben on the way to Labu (p. Jordy)

It was our presence, some 'whitey's' on a Banana Boat, however ,that would rouse interest in the Labu Villages and give Reuben and the Union a chance to communicate with them. Only minutes after arriving, even before the village bell was struck, droves of people emerged from their elevated thatched huts, from their gardens and stopped the morning hunting, all to come and see what we were doing at their village.

We were warmly welcomed. Being offered coconuts, getting smiles from small children and older women, and being approached for a hand shake from the men of the village. We sat next to the Union members, Reuben, Reuben, Henry (Lower-Watut) and the prominent members of the Labu Villages. Firstly Reuben addressed the audience with a passionate speech explaining the Unions goals, about the importance of attending the forum and why we were there. After this, I (Jordan) was invited to speak where I reiterated Reuben's main points but also added to the importance of working together in such a daunting task such as taking on an international mining company. More speeches followed from the other Watut Counsellors and also the people of Labu.

Shannon enjoying a tropical treat (p. Jordy)

Men talking man stuff, before the village bell was rung (p. Jordy)

Reuben Mete making a passionate speech (p. Jordy)

With the formalities out of the way, and our transport on PNG-time, we had the opportunity to hang out with the locals. Barny went for a swim with the local kids, Shannon admired the structural integrity of the 'Masts' on the traditional boats and I had to fight off the kids with a stick... literally! About an hour after we had planned, the Banana Boat arrived and we were on our way back to Lae.

A middle aged women carrying a Bilum (p. Jordy)

Barny blending in (p. Jordy)

A 'Mast' Shannon admired (p. Jordy)

Kids will be kids (p. Barny)

Shannon and Barny after our late pick up (p. Jordy)

Two quick PMV (Public Motor Vehicle) rides into town seen us meet up with Okam and Thomas. Okam drives a PMV between and Lae and Middle Watut twice a day, a journey of about 120km that takes about 3 hours. Middle Watut is made up of 11 villages and the second village, Sambio, was our destination. Along this journey we were invited to watch a preformance by 'Snake-Man', who through and short skit communicated the effect that Watut has had on the Markham, and also his ability to manipulate snakes.

Our chauffeur Okam (p. Jordy)

Reuben Paul with his happy face (p. Jordy)

Peter, Barny and Henry rolling towards Sambio (p. Jordy)

Snake-Man describing to us the changes to the Markham River (p. Jordy)

Balengs House (p. Jordy)

Back Country was a hit with the locals (p. Jordy)

That evening we were accommodated by Balang, another Counsellor, who invited us to eat in the meeting house and stay in his village that night. We enjoyed an evening of thorough questioning from the villagers, sharing our Back Country meals with the kids and getting to see the real PNG. Later in the evening we were invited to watch 'Watut Cries', a documentary made by the Union of Watut River Communities, highlighting how their river or lifeblood is being effect. This video is linked below and is something we suggest you watch.

The plan for the following day was to paddle the steep section of the Middle Watut, the section that had taken the lives of the Israli raft group about 10 years earlier.