Wara Busu - Boana to the Road-Bridge

With our political obligations fulfilled we were more than ready to get back on the mission. Murray had, almost obsessively, mentioned the Upper Busu would be worth pursuing and that there was a road to a potential put-in. Obviously tempted by this information we gave Murray the full twenty-questions, "How long would it be?", "Forty clicks, I have rafted the lower twenty in 3 hours". "What did you see above your put in?", "It looked a lot steeper, with maybe some waterfalls... but it was over 15 years ago I was there". "Do you think the villagers would help us out, they'd have a track down the river ay?", "(laughing) Well I am not sure, but three strong looking whitey's like yourself should be ok. and hmmm I guess there's a track". "Is there anything else that you know?", "Yeah I flew over it in a helicopter once, it looks like there is a gorge". "Is it sheer-walled, how long?". "Yeah I think so, and about 20km"......

Well... we discussed the idea of a two day recky down the banks of the Busu to scout out the gorge and see if it was a go but considering our limited time in PNG we need to either commit or forget it. So after going over our detailed information about the Busu and our broad knowledge of Papua New Guinea culture (yeah-right), we decided that we would sack up and commit. So that evening we gave Graham a call and organised a drop off to Boana for the following day, 500kina an ok price but not amazing. We figured we would take enough provisions for three days, full med-kits, extra everything as we had no real idea of what to expect.

Next morning we were reintroduced to PNG time, our transport arrived promptly but then we had to head to Dunlop and get a tyre fixed. So after this little detour we were on the road, out past Nadzap airport and then take a right and drive into the hills. Following the 4wd track we all thought that this is definitely a dry-season run as there were several spots that the road would be impassable with rain. After about an hour or so of banging around on the back of the Land Cruiser we eventually began our descent into the Busu valley, and it was spectacular. Perfect little villages clustered along the tops of ridges, each surrounded by well kept gardens. As we dropped down into the valley the reality of what we were about to embark on began to set in... 40km, potential box canyon, the only idea of gradient was a 1:1,000,000 map we seen at a heli-station and we had no local contacts... BUT, we had a good attitude, plenty of food, a solid team and were in no hurry. Pulling up to the bridge our anxiousness turned into excitement and we were all fired up. We were ready.

The bridge over the Busu (p. Jordy)

The view of the river from the bridge (p. Jordy)

Gearing up for the mission (p. Jordy)

Looking at the river bed gave no indication of what was down stream, a small shallow creek with very cloudy water. Regardless, we had committed and we were putting on. For the first 1-2km we dealt with my prior description, a small manky creek that wasn't really channelised but with the odd good move here and there. But after this the river we were on hit a trib, well actually I think the trip we were on hit a river, and our flow more than tripled! A few anxious looks were passed around between us but this was suddenly broke by, "Heeeeeeyyyyy, WHITE-MAN, WHITE-MAN, WHITE-MAN". A group of young villagers had caught a glimpse of us floating by and gave pursuit. This is something I never really understood, the kids chase us relentlessly, calling our names and grinning to ear to ear, but I never worked out their goal from doing this. Anyway, all the extra water was fun, the odd big hole to dodge and some waves but in the back of all our minds was that if this water actually went into a box canyon, a constricting gorge or even just a really steep section, it would be off the richter.

Barny on the big brown Busu (p. Jordy)

Rolling on down (p. Barny)

After rounding a corner the intensity looked to begin, a steep section that required a few bold moves to keep away from the big holes. After this the gradient remained steepish, but not too steep... for 20km! At times the river looked as if it was going to fall away, but then it would be one move and then a steep and pushy wave train, with one or two big holes, for about 500m. Unlike anything we had ever paddled, this river didn't have a pool for like 10km. Just big-water class IV with no reason to stop and the noticeable absence of people. For a stretch of 10km or more we didn't see one person, see a sign of a village, a track or anything. Although this may not sound to odd as in most places people paddle you never see people on the river, but in PNG this was the only time we didn't have a hoard of children and villagers following our descent.

Barny making his way (p. Jordy)

Beautiful Busu (p. Jordy)

Shannon soaking it in (p. Barny)

Big brown water (p. Jordy)

Well.... yeah (p. Jordy)

Anyway the Busu pretty much stayed at 20m/km for the upper 20km, and then went into a braided river system for the following 20km. So unfortunately, and fortunately, the river didn't have exactly what we were looking for, but in saying that we had an amazing trip and ticked of what we've been told was our third first descent!